Ritamulse SCG (Emulsimulse, ECOMulse)

What is it?

Ritamulse SCG is a plant-derived ECO-CERT complete emulsifying wax for creating oil-in-water emulsions. It is often re-named by suppliers and can be found sold under names like “Emulsimulse” and “ECOMulse“. Clariant also sells a product called “Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30” with an identical INCI. Refer to the INCI and any documentation your supplier provides to confirm what you’ve got.

Ritamulse SCG is approximately 55–65% glyceryl stearate, 20–30% cetearyl alcohol, and 10–20% Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (source).
INCI

Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Appearance

Thin, flat, brittle white flakes.
Usage rate

2–10%
Scent

Nothing much.
Approximate Melting Point

81.1°C (178°F)
Charge

Anionic
Solubility

Oil
Why do we use it in formulations?

In lotions and creams it functions as an all-in-one emulsifier as well as contributing thickening. I find emulsions made with Ritamulse SCG tend to be thicker than emulsions made with Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF (when used at the same usage rate).

In cleansing oils and balms it creates products that self-emulsify on contact with water. It also brings the “cleansing” element as Ritamulse SCG is made up of molecules that have an oil-loving and a water-loving end; the oil-loving end grabs the oil on your skin, and the water-loving end grabs the water you are washing with to rinse away easily.
Do you need it?

If you’re interested in making natural emulsions, I’d say yes. It’s not as versatile as some not-natural non-ionic emulsifying waxes like Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate or Emulsifying Wax NF, but I really like it and prefer it to the more popular (and also natural) Olivem 1000.
Strengths

It is a fairly easy-to-use complete emulsifying wax that creates beautiful, rich feeling emulsions with a lovely powdery finish.
Weaknesses

It can be harder to find (and more expensive) than more standard emulsifying waxes like Emulsifying Wax NF.

Formulator Sample Shop notes Ritamulse SCG can emulsify up to 25% oils, while Clariant says their INCI-identical Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30 “can emulsify polar and non-polar oils at least up to 30%”.

RitaCorp states the ideal pH range for finished formulations using their emulsifier is 5–7.5, which may be incompatible with more natural preservatives that require a lower pH to function. However, Clariant says their Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30 is compatible with a pH range of 4–10, and I’ve definitely created stable Ritamulse SCG formulations that were around pH 4.5, so I think you’re likely to be fine working with a wider pH range.

As Ritamulse SCG is anionic (negatively charged), is not compatible with cationic (positively charged) ingredients.
Alternatives & Substitutions

Olivem 1000 is likely the easiest alternative for Ritamulse SCG as it is also ECO-Cert compliant and creates emulsions with a similarly thick, fluffy feel—though I do find it is much more prone to soaping and is less tolerant of electrolytes.

PolyAquol™-2W, Plantasens® HE20, and MONTANOV™ 68 MB are also natural and can also work.

If your formulation contains a gum/gelling ingredient (or can be modified to include one), Glyceryl Stearate SE should work as well.

You could also use Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF for non-natural alternatives.

You cannot use a solubilizer, like Polysorbate 80, in place of Ritamulse SCG.

You cannot use a true wax, like beeswax, or a stand-alone fatty thickener, like Cetearyl Alcohol, in place of Ritamulse SCG.
How to Work with It

Melt it into your heated oil phase; it needs to be heated to incorporate.

Ritamulse SCG works at surprisingly low levels. I’ve used it at 20–25% of the oil phase for years, but recently tried it as low as 12% of the oil phase and it can work!
Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Ritamulse SCG should last at least two years.

I’ve had some for upwards of a decade and it’s still completely fine.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Ritamulse SCG is helps boost the moisturizing properties of your emulsions.
Recommended starter amount

50–100g (2–3oz)
Where to Buy it

Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Ritamulse SCG is often re-named by suppliers to something with “mulse” and/or “Eco” in the name, so you’ll want to search for it by INCI rather than as “Ritamulse SCG”.

Some Formulations that Use Ritamulse SCG

Originally published on November 24, 2018