Evening Primrose Oil

What is it?

A carrier oil pressed from the seeds of the evening primrose flower.

INCI

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Appearance

Yellow liquid oil.

Usage rate

Up to 100%

Texture

A thick, heavy oil.

Scent

It smells very distinctly oily/fishy; I recommend blending it with other carrier oils and perhaps some essential oils to dilute/mask the scent.

Absorbency Speed

Sloooooow.

Solubility

Oil

Why do we use it in formulations?

It’s an amazing serum ingredient that is incredible at battling acne thanks to its high percentages of linoleic and gamma linolenic acid.

Do you need it?

I can’t recommend it enough if you struggle with acne.

Refined or unrefined?

I have the unrefined stuff, but if you are quite scent sensitive you might prefer the refined variety.

Strengths

It’s amazing for battling acne and tacking problematic skin.

Weaknesses

It’s pretty heavy and doesn’t smell amazing, so if your skin is already really well behaved you can probably skip it.

Alternatives & Substitutions

Black Currant Seed and borage oils have a similar fatty acid profile. They are also similarly heavy and oily-smelling.

How to Work with It

Include it in the oil phase of your recipes; avoid extended exposure to heat where possible. I typically aim to dilute it with a lighter oil or in an emulsion.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Evening Primrose Oil should last a year, if not more. It tends to have a pretty short shelf life. I’d store it in the fridge to extend it as much as possible.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Try blending it with a faster absorbing oil, like argan or pomegranate seed, to help it sink into the skin faster.

Recommended starter amount

100mL (3.3fl oz) or less

Where to Buy it

 Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon.

Some Formulations that Use Evening Primrose Oil

Originally published on August 26, 2016