Hemp Seed Oil

What is it?

Hemp seed oil is the liquid oil pressed from the grains/seeds of the hemp plant.

It is predominantly linoleic acid (57%) and also contains 16% α-linolenic acid and 3% γ-linolenic acid.

INCI

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Appearance

A pale yellow to deep green liquid (the less refined versions are darker green).

Texture

Smooth

Scent

Quite green and grassy, a bit nutty.

Absorbency Speed

Average

Solubility

Oil

Why do we use it in formulations?

Hemp seed oil is recommended for use in products for irritated, mature, and dry skin. It’ll also turn products green, which you might like.

Do you need it?

It’s not easy to find a substitution that will mimic all of its properties, so if you struggle with dry, irritated skin and want to make a few DIYs that use it, I’d recommend getting a small bottle.

Refined or unrefined?

I like the unrefined stuff, though if you don’t like the grassy scent or dark green colour you might prefer the refined version.

Strengths

It’s rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, contributes a lovely green colour and a nutty/grassy scent to products.

Weaknesses

Negative (though unfounded) association with cannabis, fairly short shelf life (purchase small amounts).

Alternatives & Substitutions Black Currant Seed Oil is a reasonably close fatty acid match, though it contains 13% γ-linolenic acid (vs 3% in hemp seed oil). I find it is heavier and oxidizes more quickly.

Evening Primrose Oil and Borage Oil can be decent options; all contain far more γ-linolenic acid than hemp seed oil does but no α-linolenic acid.

For more affordable/accessible options, look for carrier oils that are also rich in linoleic acid like Sunflower Oil (regular, not high-oleic), Safflower Oil, and Grapeseed Oil. All are high in linoleic acid, but none contain γ-linolenic acid and only sunflower oil contains α-linolenic acid (though just 2%).

Wheat germ oil and walnut oil both contain lots of linoleic acid and some α-linolenic acid, but no γ-linolenic acid.

How to Work with It

I like to use hemp seed oil in salves, balms, and body butters. Where possible, include it in a post-heat phase or cool down phase to reduce heat exposure (both the length of time it is heated and the temperature it’s heated to matter, so if it has to get hot in order to incorporate it in your formulation, ensure it’s not hot for very long).

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, unrefined hemp seed should last one year. I store mine in the fridge for the longest possible shelf life.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Unrefined hemp seed oil is quite delicate and is easily scorched; be sure to use a water bath when working with it.

Hemp seed oil contains no THC (the psychoactive compound found in cannabis) so no, you will not fail any drug tests if you work with it 😉

Recommended starter amount

100mL (3.3fl oz)

Where to Buy it

 Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon.

Some Formulations that Use Hemp Seed Oil

Originally published on August 30, 2016