| What is it? |
Diisostearyl Malate is a rich, high polarity liquid ester. It is rich and glossy with a tacky skin finish. It’s an excellent pigment dispersing ingredient, so you’ll often find it in colour cosmetics. I see it most often in lip products like lip masks, balms, glosses, and oils, where it’s usually in the first 4 or 5 ingredients. |
| INCI |
Diisostearyl Malate |
| Appearance |
Clear liquid |
| Usage rate |
Up to 100% |
| Texture |
Somewhat viscous liquid; a bit thicker than castor oil |
| Scent |
Nothing noticeable |
| Absorbency Speed |
Slow |
| Approximate Melting Point |
Liquid at room temperature |
| Solubility |
Oil soluble |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
Diisostearyl Malate brings gloss, richness, and pigment dispersion benefits to our formulations. |
| Do you need it? |
No, but it you love formulating colour cosmetics and/or long-wearing lip masks/balms, I’d grab some if you can. |
| Refined or unrefined? |
Diisostearyl Malate only exists as a refined ingredient. |
| Strengths |
Rich, long-wearing, glossy emollient. |
| Weaknesses |
Poor availability. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
I’ve used castor oil as a swap succesfully. |
| How to Work with It |
Include Diisostearyl Malate in your oil phase; it can be hot or cold processed. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Diisostearyl Malate should last at least 2 years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
Diisostearyl Malate is the first ingredient in the popular Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask. |
| Recommended starter amount |
50g (1.76oz) |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Mine is from My Skin Recipes, sold as LipidSoft™ Disperse. |
Diisostearyl Malate
Originally published on December 13, 2025