Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

What is it?

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables is a natural lightweight emollient derived from olives. It is more than 90% Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and less than 10% Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (source).

This ingredient is sold under a lot of different names, including:

It is often marketed as a natural alternative to lightweight silicones like cyclomethicone. I do not find it has the same volatility & weightlessness as cyclomethicone and other cyclo-siloxanes, but it does help lighten up formulations, reduce soaping, and improve slip.

INCI

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Appearance

Pale thin liquid

Usage rate

Recommended usage rates vary quite a lot, with the lower end ranging from 0.5–2% and the high end ranging from 25–40%. I’ve found sample formulations using it at up to 47.5%, leading me to believe the upper ends of these usage ranges are just recommendations, not safe usage limits.

Texture

Slippy, lightweight

Scent

Nothing noticeable

Absorbency Speed

Fast

Approximate Melting Point

Liquid at room temperature

Solubility

Oil

Why do we use it in formulations?

  • As a lightweight emollient in all sorts of skincare and haircare formulations
  • To lighten up true oils in anhydrous formulations (aka reducing greasiness)
  • To boost slip
  • Improves comb-through and shine in haircare products
  • Reduces soaping in emulsions
Do you need it?

No, but it is a nice, widely available, lightweight natural emollient

Refined or unrefined?

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables only exists as a refined product.

Strengths

Lovely feeling, lightweight natural emollient that is relatively widely available.

Weaknesses

It’s not as light as cyclomethicone, no matter what the product descriptions say.

Alternatives & Substitutions

I suggest other lightweight natural esters and emollients like Isoamyl cocoateIsoamyl laurateNeossance® Hemisqualane, and Coco-Caprylate.

How to Work with It

Include it in your oil phase; it can be hot or cold processed.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry,

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Recommended starter amount

30mL (1fl oz)

Where to Buy it

Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier; I’ve linked a bunch of them at the top of this entry..

Some Formulations that Use Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Originally published on October 10, 2024