| What is it? |
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables is a natural lightweight emollient derived from olives. It is more than 90% Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and less than 10% Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (source). This ingredient is sold under a lot of different names, including:
It is often marketed as a natural alternative to lightweight silicones like cyclomethicone. I do not find it has the same volatility & weightlessness as cyclomethicone and other cyclo-siloxanes, but it does help lighten up formulations, reduce soaping, and improve slip. |
| INCI |
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables |
| Appearance |
Pale thin liquid |
| Usage rate |
Recommended usage rates vary quite a lot, with the lower end ranging from 0.5–2% and the high end ranging from 25–40%. I’ve found sample formulations using it at up to 47.5%, leading me to believe the upper ends of these usage ranges are just recommendations, not safe usage limits. |
| Texture |
Slippy, lightweight |
| Scent |
Nothing noticeable |
| Absorbency Speed |
Fast |
| Approximate Melting Point |
Liquid at room temperature |
| Solubility |
Oil |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
|
| Do you need it? |
No, but it is a nice, widely available, lightweight natural emollient |
| Refined or unrefined? |
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables only exists as a refined product. |
| Strengths |
Lovely feeling, lightweight natural emollient that is relatively widely available. |
| Weaknesses |
It’s not as light as cyclomethicone, no matter what the product descriptions say. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
I suggest other lightweight natural esters and emollients like Isoamyl cocoate, Isoamyl laurate, Neossance® Hemisqualane, and Coco-Caprylate. |
| How to Work with It |
Include it in your oil phase; it can be hot or cold processed. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
|
| Recommended starter amount |
30mL (1fl oz) |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier; I’ve linked a bunch of them at the top of this entry.. |
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Originally published on October 10, 2024