Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

What is it?

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is a PEG-free non-ionic surfactant & emollient with great solubilizing abilities.

INCI

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Some manufacturers also include water in the INCI. Check the data sheet to see how much water it contains; if it’s in the 9–11% range that’s in line with products from manufacturers who don’t include water in the INCI.

Appearance

Viscous yellowish liquid; can be clear or hazy depending on how long it has been stored.

From Evonik: “Under storage the product tends to get turbid. This is a typical behaviour and indicates no loss in application behaviour or performance. In case of small precipitate, the product should be homogenized at approx. 30°C.”

Usage rate

Formulations from Evonik show 1–34%, depending on the formulation. 34% was a foaming bath oil; cleansers used 1–2%.

3V Sigma USA Inc. recommends 1–6%, but they also use it at 8% in one of their sample formulations.

Skin Chakra recommends 1–10%.

Scent

Nothing very noticeable

Approximate Melting Point

Liquid at room temperature

pH

3–7, according to My Skin Recipes (that’s quite the range!)

Charge

Non-ionic

Solubility

According to Evonik, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is soluble in water, ethanol, 1,2 propanediol, and ester oils. It is insoluble in parrafin oil, isopropyl myristate (IPM), and vegetable oil.

Why do we use it in formulations?

It can be used as a re-fatting ingredient in foaming cleansers and as a standalone surfactant/cleanser in very mild products like micellar water.

If you’re looking for a COSMOS-compliant alternative to ingredients like polysorbate 80, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, it’s definitely worth considering!

Do you need it?

No, but if you want to make natural micellar water it’s the best natural alternative I’ve found to PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides.

Refined or unrefined?

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate only exists as a refined product.

Strengths

Great natural alternative to PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides in micellar water.

It is stable across a wide pH range (4–10).

Weaknesses

It’s availability isn’t amazing, but it’s better than PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides!

Alternatives & Substitutions

In micellar water, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides works well, though it is not natural.

How to Work with It

Include Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in the water phase of your formulations; it can be hot or cold processed, as needed.

If using it as a solubilizer, I recommend mixing the Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate with whatever it’ll be solubilizing first, and then slowly stirring in the water.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate should last at least 18 months from the date of manufacture.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is often part of natural solubilizers, along with a blend of other ingredients. Do not assume you can swap a natural solubilizer that contains Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 1-for-1 with pure Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in a formulation. It could work, but you’ll have to test it to find out!

Evonik’s TEGOSOFT® PC 41, 3V Sigma USA Inc.’s Emulsiderm PG4C, and Oleon’s Jolee 7931 all contain 9–11% water. This is more water than polysorbate 80 contains but less than many natural solubilizers, so it could be a good natural solubilizer option for bath bombs.

Recommended starter amount

30mL (1fl oz)

Where to Buy it

 Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Mine is from MySkinRecipes out of Thailand. I’ve also found it at:

There are many Polyglyceryl-[number] [prefix]-ate ingredients out there, and they are not all interchangeable. Examples include Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, and Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate. Make sure you’re reading the entire INCI; poly-XX-ate isn’t enough of a match!

Some Formulations that Use Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Originally published on February 3, 2025