| What is it? |
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is a PEG-free non-ionic surfactant & emollient with great solubilizing abilities. |
| INCI |
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Some manufacturers also include water in the INCI. Check the data sheet to see how much water it contains; if it’s in the 9–11% range that’s in line with products from manufacturers who don’t include water in the INCI. |
| Appearance |
Viscous yellowish liquid; can be clear or hazy depending on how long it has been stored. From Evonik: “Under storage the product tends to get turbid. This is a typical behaviour and indicates no loss in application behaviour or performance. In case of small precipitate, the product should be homogenized at approx. 30°C.” |
| Usage rate |
Formulations from Evonik show 1–34%, depending on the formulation. 34% was a foaming bath oil; cleansers used 1–2%. 3V Sigma USA Inc. recommends 1–6%, but they also use it at 8% in one of their sample formulations. Skin Chakra recommends 1–10%. |
| Scent |
Nothing very noticeable |
| Approximate Melting Point |
Liquid at room temperature |
| pH |
3–7, according to My Skin Recipes (that’s quite the range!) |
| Charge |
Non-ionic |
| Solubility |
According to Evonik, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is soluble in water, ethanol, 1,2 propanediol, and ester oils. It is insoluble in parrafin oil, isopropyl myristate (IPM), and vegetable oil. |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
It can be used as a re-fatting ingredient in foaming cleansers and as a standalone surfactant/cleanser in very mild products like micellar water. If you’re looking for a COSMOS-compliant alternative to ingredients like polysorbate 80, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, it’s definitely worth considering! |
| Do you need it? |
No, but if you want to make natural micellar water it’s the best natural alternative I’ve found to PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. |
| Refined or unrefined? |
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate only exists as a refined product. |
| Strengths |
Great natural alternative to PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides in micellar water. It is stable across a wide pH range (4–10). |
| Weaknesses |
It’s availability isn’t amazing, but it’s better than PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides! |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
In micellar water, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides works well, though it is not natural. |
| How to Work with It |
Include Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in the water phase of your formulations; it can be hot or cold processed, as needed. If using it as a solubilizer, I recommend mixing the Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate with whatever it’ll be solubilizing first, and then slowly stirring in the water. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate should last at least 18 months from the date of manufacture. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is often part of natural solubilizers, along with a blend of other ingredients. Do not assume you can swap a natural solubilizer that contains Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 1-for-1 with pure Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in a formulation. It could work, but you’ll have to test it to find out! Evonik’s TEGOSOFT® PC 41, 3V Sigma USA Inc.’s Emulsiderm PG4C, and Oleon’s Jolee 7931 all contain 9–11% water. This is more water than polysorbate 80 contains but less than many natural solubilizers, so it could be a good natural solubilizer option for bath bombs. |
| Recommended starter amount |
30mL (1fl oz) |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Mine is from MySkinRecipes out of Thailand. I’ve also found it at:
There are many Polyglyceryl-[number] [prefix]-ate ingredients out there, and they are not all interchangeable. Examples include Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, and Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate. Make sure you’re reading the entire INCI; poly-XX-ate isn’t enough of a match! |
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Originally published on February 3, 2025