| What is it? |
C10-18 Triglycerides are a fatty thickener, used to boost viscosity, stability, and richness in our formulations. It is a blend of stearic acid (C18) and palmitic acid (C16)—two saturated (solid) fatty acids that naturally occur in butters like shea, cocoa, mango, and tucuma. Simply Ingredients sells C10-18 Triglycerides as “Butter Pearls”, which is a very fitting name! Their product appears to be Premier OliPearls by Premier Specialties, Inc. This product is 70–78% palmitic acid and 20–28% stearic acid. Other manufacturers also make a product with this INCI: LIPOCIRE™ A SG by Gattefossé, MM Wax® 10-18 by MMP International, and DUB CIRE H1 by Stearinerie Dubois. |
| INCI |
C10-18 Triglycerides |
| Appearance |
White pellets |
| Usage rate |
0.5–30% (You can go higher, especially if you live somewhere quite hot) |
| Texture |
When added to formulations, C10-18 Triglycerides contributes a rich, silky skin feel. |
| Scent |
Slightly fatty—nothing noticeable in finished formulations. |
| Absorbency Speed |
C10-18 Triglycerides tends to slow the absorbency speed of formulations it is added to as it makes formulations feel richer. |
| Approximate Melting Point |
45–55°C |
| Solubility |
C10-18 Triglycerides are oil soluble |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
C10-18 Triglycerides is included in formulations to make them feel richer, to boost viscosity, to harden/solidify, and to improve stability. C10-18 Triglycerides is a good way to make a product solid and rich while maintaining good slip. |
| Do you need it? |
No, but I sure like C10-18 Triglycerides! |
| Refined or unrefined? |
C10-18 Triglycerides only exists as a refined ingredient. |
| Strengths |
Rich, creamy thickening with beautiful skin feel. Very versatile. |
| Weaknesses |
Harder to find than other fatty thickeners, like cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
I’d try a blend of cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid; probably 70% cetearyl alcohol and 30% stearic acid? You’ll have to test it yourself and see what works for the particular formulation you’re using. A pseudo wax, made from hydrogenated oils, could potentially work. I do not recommend using a true wax, like beeswax or candelilla wax, instead of C10-18 Triglycerides. |
| How to Work with It |
Include C10-18 Triglycerides in the heated oil phase of your formulations. It needs to be melted. Try swapping a different fatty thickener (cetyl, stearic, cetearyl) in a lotion/cream formula you already love with C10-18 Triglycerides (Butter Pearls) and see what you think 🙂 |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, C10-18 Triglycerides should last at least two years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
It is possible for this ingredient to be made from animal sources, but I haven’t found versions made from non-vegetable sources. The product Simply Ingredients sells is made from olives. |
| Recommended starter amount |
100g (3.5oz) |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Mine is from Simply Ingredients. The Formulary sells it in the UK. |
C10-18 Triglycerides (Butter Pearls)
Originally published on June 6, 2022