| What is it? |
Sodium Stearate is saponified stearic acid—the sodium salt of stearic acid. |
| INCI |
Sodium Stearate |
| Appearance |
Fine white powder |
| Usage rate |
0.5–20% |
| Texture |
Smooth powder |
| Scent |
Nothing noticeable |
| Approximate Melting Point | |
| pH | |
| Charge |
Anionic |
| Solubility |
Water, alcohol, cosmetic esters |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
Sodium Stearate has a couple of really neat uses in cosmetics. It functions as a thickener/gelling agent and co-emulsifier. You’ll commonly find it in deodorants, where it is combined with propylene glycol or propanediol to create a solid stick base that actives can be added to. |
| Do you need it? |
No, but if you have a formulation that calls for it there’s no substitution. |
| Refined or unrefined? |
Sodium stearate only exists as a refined product. |
| Strengths |
Excellent thickener/gelling agent. |
| Weaknesses |
Harder to source than many ingredients, high pH. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
I haven’t found any viable alternatives for sodium stearate when used as a gelling agent with propylene glycol/propanediol. As a thickener, you might try stearic acid, but keep in mind stearic acid is not water-soluble like sodium stearate is. |
| How to Work with It |
Slowly sprinkle sodium stearate into the hot aqueous phase to dissolve, whisking to incorporate. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, sodium stearate should last at least two years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
Sodium stearate + propylene glycol or propanediol creates a very cool semi-translucent gelled solid! |
| Recommended starter amount |
100g (3.5oz) or less. |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. |
Sodium Stearate
Originally published on July 23, 2019