Sodium Stearate

What is it?

Sodium Stearate is saponified stearic acid—the sodium salt of stearic acid.

INCI

Sodium Stearate

Appearance

Fine white powder

Usage rate

0.5–20%

Texture

Smooth powder

Scent

Nothing noticeable

Approximate Melting Point

245–255° C

pH

10–11

Charge

Anionic

Solubility

Water, alcohol, cosmetic esters

Why do we use it in formulations?

Sodium Stearate has a couple of really neat uses in cosmetics. It functions as a thickener/gelling agent and co-emulsifier. You’ll commonly find it in deodorants, where it is combined with propylene glycol or propanediol to create a solid stick base that actives can be added to.

Do you need it?

No, but if you have a formulation that calls for it there’s no substitution.

Refined or unrefined?

Sodium stearate only exists as a refined product.

Strengths

Excellent thickener/gelling agent.

Weaknesses

Harder to source than many ingredients, high pH.

Alternatives & Substitutions

I haven’t found any viable alternatives for sodium stearate when used as a gelling agent with propylene glycol/propanediol.

As a thickener, you might try stearic acid, but keep in mind stearic acid is not water-soluble like sodium stearate is.

How to Work with It

Slowly sprinkle sodium stearate into the hot aqueous phase to dissolve, whisking to incorporate.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, sodium stearate should last at least two years.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Sodium stearate + propylene glycol or propanediol creates a very cool semi-translucent gelled solid!

Recommended starter amount

100g (3.5oz) or less.

Where to Buy it

Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Sodium Stearate

Originally published on July 23, 2019