This Bi-Phase Hyaluronic Acid Hair Serum is part leave-in hair conditioner, part hair serum. It features hydrating and luxurious hyaluronic acid, volume-boosting hydrolyzed rice protein, and ultra-light Neossance® Hemisqualane—I am loving working a few pumps through my hair from about the ears down. My ends are pretty dry these days as I am well overdue for a trim, but this serum perks it right up! And, since it’s a bi-phase serum it’s incredibly simple to make while still getting the benefit of both oil and water-soluble ingredients. Let’s dive in!
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I first learned about bi-phase formulation in my Formula Botanica coursework. A bi-phase formulation takes something we’d usually consider a failure—separation—and turns it into a key feature of the formulation. It’s not a super common formulation style, but you can definitely find bi-phase products for sale if you go looking; many of the ones I’ve found are makeup removers, but you can find other formulations like serums and salt sprays as well.
The biggest benefit of a bi-phase formulation is pretty obvious; since we aren’t worried about separation, we don’t have to fuss with emulsifiers or the stability of the emulsion. We still get the diluting impact of mixing water and oil, it’s just easier. Since the product isn’t emulsified it remains quite thin, and you’ll want to make sure you aren’t using oil phase ingredients that’ll thicken up so much that they won’t incorporate well when the product is shaken before use (imagine a lump of shea butter shaken in a jar of water—you’ll just have a lump of shea butter floating around in the water). This required thinness makes bi-phase formulations best suited for serum-y type things.
Since my hair only needs a wee bit of oil, the oil phase of this serum is quite small. It’s primarily comprised of two lightweight emollients; Neossance® Hemisqualane and camellia seed oil, at 5% each. If you wanted to make this serum even lighter you could swap the Neossance® Hemisqualane for some cyclomethicone, or simply reduce the amount of either or both of the emollients (making up for the loss with more distilled water). If you’d like to make the serum richer, simply use more oil, dialling back the water to make room for it.
The water phase stars hyaluronic acid to help hydrate and moisturize the hair. You’ll also find some richly conditioning polyquaternium 7, volumizing hydrolyzed rice protein, and shine-boosting panthenol. The hydrolyzed rice protein is brown, so the entire water phase takes on a pale golden-y colour that contrasts a bit with the clear oil phase floating on top.
I tried packaging this formulation in both a mister-top bottle and a treatment pump bottle. Both work, but you won’t really get the misty benefits of the mister top bottle as this formulation is just a wee bit too thick to mist. It dispenses, but in more of a concentrated blast—concentrated enough that I couldn’t apply it straight to my hair without getting a greasy spot, so I ended up spritzing it into my hand and then working the product through my hair with my fingers. Whatever you use, make sure you shake well before use.
Relevant links & further reading
- Hyaluronic Acid in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Polyquaternium 7 in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Hydrolyzed Rice Protein in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Liquid Germall Plus in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Neossance® Hemisqualane in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Camellia Seed Oil in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Tocopherol (Vitamin E) in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Can I use a different preservative than the one you’ve used? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
- Preservatives + Shelf Life in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
- Other leave-in hair formulations:
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Bi-Phase Hyaluronic Acid Hair Serum
Water phase
32.35g | 64.7% distilled water
10g | 20% low molecular weight 1% hyaluronic acid solution (USA / Canada / New Zealand) (This is NOT dry powder!)
0.5g | 1% Polyquaternium 7 (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 3% hydrolyzed rice protein (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.5% panthenol powder (vitamin B5) (USA / Canada)Oil phase
2.5g | 5% Neossance® Hemisqualane (USA / Canada)
2.5g | 5% camellia seed oil
0.05g | 0.1% fragrance oil or essential oil of choice
0.1g | 0.2% Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)Weigh all the ingredients into a small beaker, or directly into the bottle you’ll be storing the serum in.
If it’s a beaker, stir to combine. If you went straight for the bottle, cap and shake.
For packaging: I recommend something with a treatment pump cap for dispensing, though a mister will work. Please watch the video for more details. This isn’t the prettiest serum to look at, so I’d choose a frosted, tinted, or opaque bottle rather than a clear one 😂 I used a Zelo frosted bottle from New Directions; the cap I used has been discontinuied, but they do have other dispensing pump caps that would be suitable.
That’s it!
To use, shake to combine before dispensing into your palm. Work through your hair—I prefer to apply this from the ears down, but definitely experiment and see what works for you. Enjoy!
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this serum contains water, you must include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. This is non-optional. Even with a preservative, this project may eventually spoil as our kitchens are not sterile laboratories, so in the event you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 50g, which will fill a 50mL (1.69fl oz) bottle nicely.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this formulation, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there! If I have not given a specific substitution suggestion in this list (panthenol, vitamin E) please look up the ingredient in the encyclopedia before asking.
- If you don’t have the hyaluronic acid I’d replace that 20% with 5% glycerine and 15% distilled water.
- You could try a different water soluble conditioning ingredient instead of Polyquaternium 7, like honeyquat or polyquaternium 10. Make sure you’re checking usage rates for whatever you use to ensure you’re using a suitable amount. I don’t recommend using a solid fatty conditioner like behentrimonium chloride (BTMC) or BTMS.
- You can replace hydrolyzed rice protein with a different hydrolyzed protein (oat, baobab, quinoa, etc.).
- If you’re like to use a different preservative, please review this FAQ and this chart.
- You can substitute another lightweight oil like sweet almond, grapeseed, or sunflower seed for the camellia seed oil. You could also choose a different luxury oil that your hair loves, like Argan Oil.
- Make sure whatever fragrance oil or essential oil you use is safe to use in leave-on products at 0.1%; most will be, but always double-check!
Gifting Disclosure
The hyaluronic acid was gifted by Pure Nature.
You read my mind!!! I was looking through your site last week trying to find something like this and went with using the HA stock alone, manely (couldn’t resist;) for my scalp. Can’t wait to try this! I’ll probably try it with less oil since my hair is super fine and finicky with oils.
Hooray! I hope you (and your mane) love it ❤️ Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
This is by far my favorite hair product ever!! Thank you soo much for sharing this!! I have natural curly hair that is frizzy. I have used this and man it has made a difference. My daughter has thick frizzy hair and I used this on her too and then straightened her hair and it is so smooth and soft.
I will always keep this on hand. The only thing I changed was I used hemp seed oil.
HOORAY! I am SO dang stoked to hear it 😀 Thank you so much for making with me and for sharing your results ❤️
Hi Marie! I did not find this answer anywhere else, so I am asking you. Can I replace the Polyquaternium-7 with Formulators Sample Shop’s Polyquaternium-78?
Thank you for your time.
Hi Joni, you could find this article useful https://www.humblebeeandme.com/project/polyquaternium-7/#:~:text=If%20a%20formula%20calls%20for,widely%20considered%20to%20be%20unpleasant.
I absolutely LOVE this product!! I have been using it for a couple of months and it has made a huge difference in the fizziness and curl holding features of my hair. I made it again yesterday because I have to have it! I did add a curl enhancer and, aloe extract. It has worked beautifully! I think this will be my hair serum for life!!
I’m guessing that you never received a full answer. I’ve also got the Polyquaternium 78. It is water soluble.
Wondering if you did this serum using it, because I saw your reply below regarding how much you love the formulation.
Made this yesterday and have used it twice once on dry hair and this morning after showering on wet hair. Both times it worked well. My hair is really fine and straight, but I could imagine it would work really well for my friends with coarser wavier hair. Thank fully this made enough for two small bottles so that I can share. A little goes a long way on my hair!
Hooray! I’m so thrilled to hear it ❤️ Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Can’t wait to make this once my coco caprylate arrives together with silk & camellia leave on conditioner sort of concotion. Blend of camellia and coco silicone might work, based on what I’ve read. I’m thinking about giveing conditioning hair balm a new shot too, essp because natural hair oil is a tricky one to develope.
I like this one a lot. Thank you so much for developing and sharing this one. Esspecially now when my hair is short, it’s easy to apply too much hair oil or rich leave on conditioner. This feels relatively light weight and leaves my hair feeling lovely! I made few swaps: betaine instead of polyquat, hydrosols for scent and coco caprylate instead of hemisqualane. Scent is delightful! I used chamomile and jasmine hydrosols. I replaced EO’s with natrasil (hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate & hydrogenated olive oil unsabonifiables) and it seems to boost slip. Yay. Few months ago I was pretty sure that leave on conditioners aren’t my thing (just assumed so, haven’t tried them for ages until I saw your formulations). xx
Hi Johanna – I always like seeing your comments, you offer some great “food for thought”!
I was wondering what you think the best formulations that Marie has posted on her website are? Do you have a Top 5?
Thanks 🙂
Anyone else is welcome to chime in!
Thank you dear for sharing . What would be the pH of final product?
This is lovely! I was wondering if you’ve experienced this issue. The next day I notice a gelatinous floater develops. Not matter how much I shake it, it doesn’t break up and disperse. Instead of using as a hair serum, I wanted to use as a face serum. So I did substitute the water for 100% cucumber hydrosol. Used 10% prickly pear oil. Everything else is the same. Next batch, I did 50/50 water and hydrosol. Still get the goppy goop. Thoughts of what might be causing this? Thank you!
Hi Marie. Thank you so much for this recipe. I made this 2x. But the 2nd one made into a face cleanser. It works great, however I am curious to see if you’re planning on creating a biphase cleanser.
How could I alter this formulation to be a face spray serum instead of a hair serum? I was thinking of swapping out the hydrolyzed rice, protein for hydrolyze, silk protein, and just omitting the Polyquaternium 7 altogether. Would that work?
I can’t believe this worked for the frizz in my hair. Usually I don’t like my hair till day 2 because it’s not smooth. With this serum my hair looks as sleek as on day 2, yet not flat or oily. Woo hooo! The only change I made was to swap Glycerin for the Polyquaternium 7.
I’m not a fan of shaking before using though. I don’t know if my friends will do that if I share it.
How would you suggest emulsifying the formula? I don’t mind if it’s gel like. Do you think I could emulsify it like you did with your “DIY Aloe Vera Gel” using either Sepimax ZEN or Soft Xanthan? Then would I need a preservative like Optiphen™ Plus?
Thanks for a GREAT & SIMPLE formula.
You could always try sodium surfactin (on Lotioncrafter’s website, it’s called SurfPro Surfactin), because it does work as an emulsifier. Or you could use Polysorbate 80. Some people don’t like Poly 80, but I don’t mind it.